Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[doomedgame]

Its back. Hit a problem the main cap kits bolt and stud kit from arp will not work with my block same with the milodon studs run out of threads none thread part is to long. ideas?

[Butch]

Maybe your block threads are not tapped to the botton of the holes.
Run a #3 bottom tap (the end is square not tapered) down the holes
and blow them out with compressed air. Also are you using flat washers
under the nuts?

[doomedgame]

stud is as far in the block as they can go without cutting treads out of the block and still one tread above or below problem with all and three kits. Have not had any machine work done on the mains

[Butch]

You don't have to have any machine work done to the mains,
you can buy the tap and run it into the block by hand and clean
up the bottom of the threads. I'm almost positive that this is your
problem. The factory tooling only cut the threads deep enough to
accomodate the designed thread engagement of the original bolts.

[doomedgame]

they cant thread into the block any more the studs are out of threads. Yes it needs some machining.

[S-type]

Its back. Hit a problem the main cap kits bolt and stud kit from arp will not work with my block same with the milodon studs run out of threads none thread part is to long. ideas?

You need a bottoming tap to get more thread into the block. If you can't get one, chuck the studs in a lathe and trim them back to where they will fit properly.

[doomedgame]

thats not the problem its running out of threads on the stud the only way i can think of is thread the block deeper and remove the first few in the block to set the stud deeper

[Charger440RT]

Why is the stud "too long"? How do you know this? Do you not get many threads into the block? Or are you too many threads above the main caps when you install them and spin the nut on? What do your originals look like?

Take a depth gauge and measure the depth of the threaded hole in the block, then measure your threads if you can't base length off the originals.

[doomedgame]

With the stud in as far a the stud will let it i could get one turn of the nut before out of threads on the top milodon stud kit ARP bolt and stud kit all the same problem. My next day off going to take it up to the machine shop see what they can do It has to be something with my block.

[Charger440RT]

So you have several threads above the cap. But when you tighten it and the cap seats itself, you start getting into the unthreaded center of the stud. Is this correct?

These are the original caps, right? Where are the bolts/studs that were originally on them? Get those same studs or just get a bolt set instead of the studs. I have main bolts on my engines, and I abuse the hell out of them.

[doomedgame]

one thread below the washer yes original caps.

[patrickgrossman]

you did get it line bored when you decided to go with main studs, right?  sounds like they cut a little too much out of the cap?

guess I'd look for some thicker hardened washers from ARP or milodon to put under the stud bolts.

[doomedgame]

That block has never been line honed other then the factor machine work

[Charger440RT]

Where are your factory bolts/studs? Did you compare them to the ARP/Milodon set?

[patrickgrossman]

when you switch from bolts to studs, you're supposed to get it line honed with the studs torqued down, they hold the caps differently than bolts, and your main bearing bores might not be true with the studs in it.

if you keep it under 500-550 horse, and probably 6500 RPM (depending on bobweight), you really don't need studs.