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[srt92]

i have a 1987 chrysler fifth ave. i want more power and a stronger motor. (strong enough to run excellent air conditioning.) what all will i need to drop a 5.9 liter magnum (fuel injected) motor into my fifth ave? will there require any MAJOR requirements? btw if this is not possible, then i know for a fact that i can get a 360 motor from a late 70s dodge, but im trying to ditch a carburator for good. whats the cheapest way to go i have all summer until august 26th hits. plus she might need a tranny rebuild, and a differential rebuild. this car has 212,000 miles. the suspension is shot. any ideas? btw this car is going to be an everyday driver.

[Dippy.org]

[79dodge4ever]

if your doing this to your only car.... then don't, it will probably take a month to get it running and get all the bugs worked out


first of all you will need the specially balaced flexplate you can buy from summit racing to bolt your 318 converter to 360; please not the magnum 360 is balanced different then LA 360

second you will need a 360 car oil pan, a 1977-1978 plymouth volare with LA 360 is what you tell the counter person

mounts will work from 318 but need to be shimmed to fit drivers side

exhaust, just use your 318 manifolds

now the hard part... wiring; if you get the engine from the donor vehicle get the underhood wiring harness, all sensors and computer. most salvage yards call this a complete engine or take out engine. next get a pre 1996 engine so wiring will be easier if your not used to it. get the wiring diagram for that year of vehicle as well

I do TBI harness' but I haven't got into MPFI magnum harness' and don't intend to for resale (for myself only)

[Ice Cold]

For a LOT less cash, a 4bbl, ignition swap, Ypipe and a 8 1/4 rear end.
Cause if you do the 5.9, you better be counting in a rear end anyways.

[Warpspeed]

don' forget the electric fuel pump, filter, bypass, etc.  It will work great as I did the same swap in my 87 Dakota with  a 99 Durgano 5.9  Wow! runs great, but, as 79 says it takes time to get everything in and running right.

[79dodge4ever]

For a LOT less cash, a 4bbl, ignition swap, Ypipe and a 8 1/4 rear end.
Cause if you do the 5.9, you better be counting in a rear end anyways.

yes alot less cash you can do a 4 barrel, but there's no replacement for EFI, starts first try cold or hot, puts down consistent numbers and can be very simple if you eliminate the unnecessary pollution controls from the engine and associated wiring

[Ice Cold]

yes alot less cash you can do a 4 barrel, but there's no replacement for EFI, starts first try cold or hot, puts down consistent numbers and can be very simple if you eliminate the unnecessary pollution controls from the engine and associated wiring

I just hear -MO MONEY-MO MONEY.
A Merlin would be even quicker.
A 5.9 won't stack up.

[Mike]

Those magnums also had pretty high intake setups. Last time I tried to size that out it didn't look like it would all clear the hood. I never actually tried tho.

[81SportCoupe]

a 5.9 magnum carb swap is easy...
-aftermarket intake manifold, some kind of 4 bbl carb.
-late 70's F/J 360 engine mounts or schumacher mounts.
-use the flexplate that came with the engine (it will be balanced to the engine) and use a 318 neutral-balanced torque convertor.
-if using the serpentine belt setup off the new engine, you will need a p/s pump and bracket off a full size v6/v8 b-van. Ram, dakota; durango and grand cherokee brackets are too long to fit our cars.
-alternator must be 97 or older to fit dippy wiring, or matched to harness if going EFI
-the manifolds that come with those engines are excellent, but will NOT fit our cars. i wish like hell they did... but you will not clear the firewall.
-if using factory transmission, you need to notch the bellhousing for the crank sensor (if using EFI) and in any case install a shift kit. Raising line pressure and quickening shifts is a great idea when adding this much more power. If you want to swap 904, the v6 B van transmission will bolt right into a diplomat, and have the crank sensor slot in it. Most rams, dakotas etc have 4 speed transmissions; alot of extra work and money to make it fit.
-upgrade the rear end. (8.25" or 8.75" F-M-J bodies all interchange, and 69 and older B bodies fit with minimal differences. The stock 7.25 axle is really good for stock non-abusive, under 150hp use. There is no other drop-in swap options for these cars, correct me if i'm wrong.
-There is alot of other details, but that covers the broader bases. I just finished this swap on my 81 coupe...

[DobaMark]

Nothing, I repeat nothing, will give you more bang for the buck than ditching the 2.2 gears in the rear axle.  An otherwise stock 318-2 with 2.9 gears will be better than a modified 318 and stock 2.2 gears.  Sure a 360's torque would help overcome the poor gearing some but the fact is you need better gearing. 

If the car has a 7.25" axle, don't spend a single penny on that axle.  Ditch it and get an 8.25".

[270SE]

Swapping the rear would be a very good idea if you've got a 7.25- which if you think the axle itself needs a rebuild, it probably does. Dakotas and Jeeps can be good donors, but perches are off. Watch the center section too- IIRC some of those are not in the right place, but most are and the length's close- you just want to be under 60 drum-drum or disc-disc. That's if these cars aren't often common or you don't have an 8.25 already. The Daks and Jeeps also often have 8.25s with 3.2s-3.9s. '96-up won't work in a '95-down housing.

The motor will bolt onto your mounts, just shim them a bit. LA headers work. Jeep manifolds may work. As far as I can tell, you may have issues with the stock manifolds leaking at the bottom of the exhaust port. (maybe that's only a problem for large port exhaust manifolds though) Like 79Dodge said, oil pan for a car- all the same '71-'80, but an F application like that should bring it up well and keep it simple enough to keep from saying more than once. If you use a 904, make sure you get the right balance on the trans side. (flexplate or converter)

The intake may not clear the hood with any stock air cleaner. The M1s are now available cheap enough used to install- and that with an aftermarket air cleaner should clear fine, even the 4bbl intake w/adapter. I'm running an M1 with an Eddy on it- and I have enough clearance that I'm having to run a short air cleaner, but it looks like w/the adapter and TB I can go back to my stock air cleaner.

Cheapest way to go- piecing together the driveline, but buying each piece of it complete. i.e. motor dressed, transmission ready to hook up, and rear ready to go. Pay attention to what's around you- the cheapest way to go is different for various areas.

[Sublime440]

As everyone else said, ditch the 7.25 and get an 8.25 before you do anything. You can find one with a 2.94 and it would really wake that car up with electronic ignition, 4bbl, and a decent exhaust system.

[79dodge4ever]

Those magnums also had pretty high intake setups. Last time I tried to size that out it didn't look like it would all clear the hood. I never actually tried tho.

this guy did, and it worked for him

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84YKsgcJWIs

[Mike]

Good to know.