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Cop Car Parts To Pull

Below is a list of parts to pull if you find an M-body cop car in the junkyard. Most of the parts listed here are specific to cop cars, but others are listed because they should be pulled anyway.

Interior:

• Instrument bezel with the special oil pressure gauge
• Instrument cluster with the 125-mph speedometer
• Dome light (this is a special round dome light mounted close to the windshield
• Interior door panels if they are not ripped
• "Salon" script on the front door panels
• Manual window cranks (if so equiipped)
• Cop car bucket seats (4-nuts each must be removed from under the car if you want the frames. WARNING: The studs that the nuts screw on to are part of the seat frame and cannot be easily removed. The threads on these studs are usually clogged up with years of grease, undercoating and gunk.  Trying to remove the nuts without cleaning off the stud threads will almost guarantee that they will snap off.  Use a fine wire brush to clean off the threads, then spray them liberally with WD-40 or PB Blaster and brush them again.

Engine bay:

• 4-barrel carburetor (if it's older than 1985, it should have a Thermoquad carburetor)
• 4-barrel intake manifold
• 4-barrel air cleaner
• 4-barrel flexible air intake duct (this piece is much larger then the civilian version and only
  fits the 4-barrel air cleaner
• 4-barrel kickdown linkage
• 360 heads (although there are better choices out there)
• Power steering cooler
• Oil filler extension tube. (This 6" tall piece screws into the passenger side valve cover oil fill hole, and has a pull off cap. Chrysler part numbers 4173223 (Tube), 2960622(Cap) and 6030608 (seal) used to retail for almost $40.00 for the three. They may no longer be available.)
• Oil cooler (if so equipped) Dont forget the hollow fuel pump bolt
• Transmission cooler
• Brake proportioning valve
• Oil pressure sender
• Heavy duty alternator and mounting bracket
• Denso (mini-style) starter, along with the heat shield (1988 and 1989 models)

Suspension:

• Front sway bar and mounting hardware
• Rear sway bar, link hardware, frame mounting brackets and the bolts holding them in
• Cop car shock plates. DON'T FORGET THESE. You will need them for the sway bars, as civilian shock plates don't have the sway bar mounting brackets
• 5-leaf springs (although it's probably a better idea to buy new springs)
• 5-leaf lower spring clamps. These come in handy if you want to upgrade your civilian M-body to 5-leaf springs. The clamps for 5-leaf springs are taller than the 4-leaf clamps. Use a hacksaw on the large u-bolts holding the axle on the springs. They shouldn't be re-used anyway.

Wheels:

• 6-hole cop car wheels
• Dog dish hubcaps

Driveline:

• If it has a 727, grab the torque shaft bracket.  It bolts to the driver's side of the transmission and supports the gear select mechanism
• 727 Transmission if so equipped. Also get the driveshaft that goes with the 727, as it is shorter
• 8 1/4" rear axle
• 904 Driveshaft if so equipped

Rear Brakes:

• Grab the 11" backing plates and all of the internal brake hardware.  Leave the drums and order new ones

Body:

• Pentastar hood ornament
• Wheel well trim (called "wheel opening moldings" by the yards)
• Lower rocker trim (pull up on the trim from the bottom and flip it out from the top)
• Lower rocker trim retaining clips (rotate the bottom of the plastic clips sideways, pull out on the bottom to clear the bottom rivet and then slide them straight up to remove)
• Spotlight
• Front fiberglass header panel with the grille and signal lights
• Grill and signal lights only if the header panel is trashed
• Chrome headlight bezels
• Tail light housings
• Bumpers (front and rear)
• Bumper shocks (front and rear)
• Bumper fascias (front and rear)
• Front tag bracket
• Any other chrome and trim which can be sold

Source: Compiled from numerous posts by Farley's members

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