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[kapspi]

The other day I heard a horrible sound outside, so I think, "Oh no", and yes indeed. The neighbor had sold two cars to a dealer who contracted a flat bed to haul them to auction. It was the brown one being towed that struck my Diplomat, and it had only a small dent in the side which was really surprising. It goes to show what a driver whose only interest is the "fastest way out of here" can do with weight and momentum.


My question concerns the door. Should I really try to hammer the crease out or perhaps just fiberglass and bondo directly over it as is? Of course, the guy at the collision center said "the door is done", as the thicker sheet metal makes paintless dent repair more difficult.

[Dippy.org]

[DobaMark]

You'll have to do something as you can't fill anything that deep with good results. The crease to too much to expect to be fixable with paintless dent removal.

You have to think about how a dent happened and place the opposite force on the back of the panel in pounding it out. You also have to take into consideration the dent stretches the metal.
My opinion, the door is fixable but probably not worth the effort as the damage is covering a lot of the door. Were the car newer, they'd probably reskin the door. Since it's older it's probably a door replacement. I also suspect given the amount of damage, they may suggest the car is totaled.

[lsm360]

Dang. I don't guess door skins are available anymore, but thankfully mostly because of Fifth Aves, I'm sure used doors are out there. You'll just have to swap your door panel of course, and the lock, and mirror if you want a matching mirror. The chrome trim over wheel well can be found NOS with some research, but will be at least $100 if not more.

It looks like it got your front clip too?

I agree, insurance would total car.

[kapspi]

Yes, the front clip got yanked too. It will be totaled out, so there will be some negotiation with his insurance company. My bargaining chip is the completely new rear suspension.

Looking at part 11 at

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1987-dodge-diplomat/body_doors_and_related_parts/door_front_shell_handle_lock_and_controls.html

There are two versions of the door shells. My Diplomat has manual locks and windows, so would I be able to put my door parts on a shell for auto locks and windows?

[occupant]

That's what using Craigslist for $50 tows will get you.  Shame on your neighbor for being cheap, now it's gonna cost him!

[DobaMark]

Yes, the front clip got yanked too. It will be totaled out, so there will be some negotiation with his insurance company. My bargaining chip is the completely new rear suspension.

Looking at part 11 at

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1987-dodge-diplomat/body_doors_and_related_parts/door_front_shell_handle_lock_and_controls.html

There are two versions of the door shells. My Diplomat has manual locks and windows, so would I be able to put my door parts on a shell for auto locks and windows?

Their listing is wrong. A door shell is the basic door, no guts to make it power or manual. When a part is used on the right side of the car (passenger side) it ends in an even number. Left side (driver side) is odd. I think rather than 4 right side doors listed really it is two right side and two left side doors.
Here are the part numbers from the 1986 parts catalog:
4325 260-1 DOOR SHELL
3875 010-1 PANEL, Repair

So for the driver's side you need 4325261 (bare door) or 3875011 (repair skin).
If you can find new parts, the door will probably cost as much as a decent parts car (which you are probably going to need given the damage).

Assume your car has a realistic value of $2500. Salvage value is probably $500. So they should give you $2000. The problem is if they want to brand it as totaled. Then you have a lot more cost as it must be inspected in most states to be retitled. Try for a fair settlement with you keeping a clean title.

[lsm360]

Well if you want to eat the cost of shipping, I have a nice used Salon front clip I'll sell for less than you'll find on ebay.

[cbodymoparfan]

The doors will interchange between manual windos and electric. The regulators will need to be swapped out. www.car-part.com

[Mike]

Yes, the front clip got yanked too. It will be totaled out, so there will be some negotiation with his insurance company. My bargaining chip is the completely new rear suspension.

Looking at part 11 at

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts-list/1987-dodge-diplomat/body_doors_and_related_parts/door_front_shell_handle_lock_and_controls.html

There are two versions of the door shells. My Diplomat has manual locks and windows, so would I be able to put my door parts on a shell for auto locks and windows?

It's one door, if you read the description in black under the main one there is a door shell and repair panel like dobamark noted from his parts book.

do like the post before this and use car-part.com to find the parts.

Without structural damage they could very will fork over money and not brand the car. THey usaully won't care about stuff like the new rear suspension, a lot of the time they won't even take new tires into account unless they are weeks old.

[kapspi]

What are the two bolts that attach the front clip to the fender called? Pictures below show a view each side. They appear to be held on by nut on the fender side. I want to buy new ones.

[DobaMark]

Are you talking about the bolt that screws into the fiberglass header panel then has a nut on the other end to fasten to the fender?
I'm not sure on availability from Chrysler as the parts book shows them as part of the header panel and doesn't show them as a separate part.

[kapspi]

Yes, that's what I'm talking about. On the fender (from ebay) shown, they're on the fender, and they don't want to come off gracefully. I've been spraying the nuts with PB blaster, but if it was something I could buy, I'd just cut them off.

If the ones on my fender are like these (or worse), I guess another solution would be to buy the right size bolt, cut off the head and epoxy it to the header.

[DobaMark]

I'd bet they are available in the aftermarket.
if you could remove one and go to a body shop or body shop supply store I'm guessing they could match it up.

[Mike]

If you keep trying to remove the nut you can get them to screw out of the fiberglass if you do it evenly. Or they will just spin. Either way then you can get the nose off and use vice grips to hold that end or put some heat to the nut to get it off. Wire wheel it all and use epoxy or jbweld something like that to glue it back into the fiberglass. That's what I had to do with mine.

[MyDodgeDip]

If you destroy the original ones and can't find original replacements, they're basically hanger bolts.