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[DobaMark]

If you have a 4 bbl engine (or a pre-1985 2bbl), you've got to get compression up if you want to make power and take any real advantage of intake, exhaust or cam mods.

[Dippy.org]

[brotherGood]

So, basically what im gathering is this..I would have to change the cam, intake, carb, and headers, but to really make those worthwhile--change heads to improve the compression. Is that about it?
As for now, i believe thats all i have question wise, but as my venture continues...I'll be sure to keep everyone updated.
Thanks again

[Charger440RT]

No, you don't have to change the heads to make more power than what you currently have. However, to get the most out of the other mods, you will have to do something with the heads. The cam, exhaust, intake etc upgrades will gain you some considerable power, but they won't gain full potential without getting into the heads. The problem with swapping the heads is it's very costly, and since it sounds like you just want a nice driver with decent power I wouldn't worry about spending money on heads right now. But yes, you will have to swap the heads or do something to boost CR if you want to add more power later on. The factory CR and those heads will only get you so far on the power level before you just have to dig into your pockets and tear the engine apart.

If you want to start building decent power beyond what you have, stick with the basics everyone mentioned. If you want to get into some real performance, you'll have to get into the engine, which not only means heads but pistons as well. If you're going to go that far with a 318, you might as well stroke it or yank it out for something bigger like a 360. If it were me and I was figuring this all out again, I would do little things like what everyone mentioned before I start getting into the engine. The hardest part of what everyone recommended is the cam swap and really it isn't that hard even for a beginner with the help available on here.

[brotherGood]

Ok, so basically the heads/pistons and all that mess would be something to do towards the end i guess. First things i would do, if im getting the order right would be intake/carb, then cam, then headers?. Ive got true dual exhaust on it, but from hearing other people, the stock headers arent all that great. And then after all that mess is done, worry about heads/pistons/etc. Right?

What do you think the intake/carb will get me realistically, then cam, then headers..granted, i'll probably be buying something that i'll get good power but wont kill my fuel economy either. Beyond that, i couldnt tell you like specifically, because being the first one of these ive ever messed with, i have no idea what the difference is between anything.

Thanks

[Ice Cold]

Just drop in a 5.7 Hemi with some Jeep manifolds. It all bolts up. Even keep the tranny.
20 miles a gallon and 300+Hp

[brotherGood]

haha..i almost dropped one in my '98 ram, but i bought the dip, sold the truck, and blew all the money on guitar stuff that i dont even use anymore how difficult would that be to set up, like accessorys, and pretty much everything else..because if i can do it easily, id honestly want to go that route cause it'd be cool. no joke.

[Charger440RT]

I'll put it this way. All the information you're getting is good information.

What you have to do is determine exactly where you want to go on this build. You said 300HP. That can be done on a 318, but you have to determine if it's worth the cost, vehicle downtime, work etc.

The heads and pistons are not the last things you do when building an engine. Actually, you work from the inside out. The first thing you do is make sure you have a solid rotating assembly: crank, rods, pistons etc.

You can do one of 2 things with the 318 in your car.

1) Do the basics: cam/intake/carb/ignition/exhaust/valve springs. These are the easiest, most common, and "cheapest" things to do without taking your engine all apart. These things will add power, they are modifications that, except for the cam, are almost impossible to make mistakes on, and they'll help you begin learning what this is all about. When you are done with these mods, you can get in your car and drive it with almost no worries. The upside: it's cheap, easy, and you can get in the car and notice it's faster. The downside: you will be stuck with this power level until you decide to go to the next step below, which, you may find you're content with just doing step1. If you do decide to go to step 2, you'll have to do this all over again....

2) Do a complete build: This means heads, pistons, bolts/hardware, machine work etc and all the other "expensive" things. This is the right way to build real power and get the full potential out of the parts you choose. However, at this point, there is no point in messing with the 318 unless you decide to stroke it or do a 360 swap. This is the point where you'll have to research what exactly you plan on doing for the engine. If you decide on going this route, everyone here can help you pick parts and give pointers of where to go with the build. The upside: you'll have exactly what you want for a motor AND if you build a solid foundation.... heads, pistons, crank, rods...you'll be able to add more down the road if you want to experiment with different cams etc. The downside: this puts ALOT of downtime on your sole driver. It's also alot more expensive. You may get to this point, as a daily driving car, and realize it's too much car to drive everyday.

So it just depends on what you really want. I think doing the basics will make you more than happy for now. Like I said before, I plan on using the same 360 heads when I do my build. I'm not really worried, I think I can get my parts list right and with some needed machine work I think it will be fine.

[Ice Cold]

haha..i almost dropped one in my '98 ram, but i bought the dip, sold the truck, and blew all the money on guitar stuff that i dont even use anymore how difficult would that be to set up, like accessorys, and pretty much everything else..because if i can do it easily, id honestly want to go that route cause it'd be cool. no joke.

I guess it's a breeze if you put a carb on the 5.7. All you need then is a control box, plug in 3 things and it's a go. Even keep the A/C and the cruise.
And the car will run on this crappy gas they have now.
Herb McCandless has one in his 61 300G and gave me the lowdown

[brotherGood]

Well, as i have continuously said over and over, thanks for all the help and advise from everyone. Its hard to find advise around here..in the middle of chevy country, but anything is valued-especially at my inexperience.

@Charger440RT; I honestly will probably pretty much follow step one as you had it. for the main reason of not having another vehicle/the money for all of that. I understand what you mean by actually working your way from the inside out, i should have thought of something like that. I just have no idea what the cam/intake/carb/exhaust will get me, and i dont understand about the ignition, and im kinda eh on valve springs, simply because i dont know much about them. Will that get me near the 300hp mark?..and i shouldnt have to change anything in the rear-end/trans dept. because of the boost in hp will i?

@Ice Cold; basically, if i can get a 5.7, will it matter if it is a truck motor or not, will i have to change anything, or will it just bolt right in, and be able to go. As i've said, i am pretty much illiterate when it comes to these things. Im sure there are other things i can be asking about it, but i just have no idea where to start on it right now since i had no idea that it was a possiblilty

[Charger440RT]

Will that get me near the 300hp mark?..and i shouldnt have to change anything in the rear-end/trans dept. because of the boost in hp will i?

Probably not. But you probably won't know the difference anyway when you get in the car and it performs so much better. You also shouldn't have to change anything else just to support these mods.

The valve springs are something you MIGHT not have to change, and chances are you won't. The reason goes back to what Mark said. You can't add anything beyond what your stock heads and CR will handle. This means you are stuck using only certain cams. This is why you need a strong, solid rotating assembly....incase you want to change parts to bump up HP, you want to make sure your engine will handle it, and like me, you want something already in place so you don't have to tear it apart.....again. Basically, the biggest cam you you want to use would be something like a Voodoo 256 cam, maybe.....a 262... Usually those cams don't require special springs, just depends on whether yours are wore out or not. And actually, I used 42 year old springs that were "worn" on another 318 I have with a Comp 260H cam and drive the car everyday with no problems.

The ignition is just one of those things that explains itself. Basically you're getting rid of the computer controlled Lean Burn which some people claim is faulty, some like it, some don't know what exactly it is. I replaced mine because 1) it was already missing and 2) the Mopar Perf igniton conversion gives you more, hotter spark which will support more power as you add parts.

[270SE]

Those 360 heads are good IMO, but they aren't good for a high HP build. They're open chamber heads and don't have much room for machine work and you won't have a decent CR without going with a domed piston. There are better heads out there that will not only allow for a higher CR but will outflow the stock 360 heads right out of the box.

Even so, I'm still debating using my stock 360 heads or going aftermarket. I don't know alot of what's available aftermarket other than I have seen builds using non-factory heads making some impressive power. I'm cheap, so I will probably try and re-use my stock 360 heads unless a bargain comes along I can't refuse. I'm doing a 390 stroker next summer and my goal will be 400HP. I'll let you know when I get there and how it feels. 

They're fine for a high HP build, that's why they were put on everything.

I'm running a Voodoo 250 and was running MP .500 springs until I stopped using those heads. With the 318 springs you have to be careful because the 318 cams were around .400 lift. If you are only running a little more than that, they are in good shape, and

I run pump gas. It works okay. I used to use 87 in the 318 when it was stock, no compression, no power, no timing, no reason not to.

The 5.7 requires mounts. I don't actually know if these are made right now for these apps. (the '73-up spool mounts) And ignition control. It will cost a decent bit to start to get into. And an oil pan in any case. Don't know how the factory accessories bolt up.

The 360 swap was easy. Converter, washer's on driver's side, and bolt it up like the 318 came out. But as long as the 318's still healthy and is a 4bbl motor, might as well leave it there for now.



I'd do ignition, intake, cam, exhaust. Should get you close enough.

Those heads on that motor are probably about how they need to be.

[Mike]

And after you've done doing all this to the 318 if you did what Ark said originally and used a 360 you wouldn't have had to do as much to it or if you did it all to the different engine you would be getting more power.

[Woodvark]

And after you've done doing all this to the 318 if you did what Ark said originally and used a 360 you wouldn't have had to do as much to it or if you did it all to the different engine you would be getting more power.

And it would be great if someone only about three hours away had a 360 + .030 with SP 405P30 flat top pistons, 974 heads with Comp 995 springs, a Comp 268H cam, Eddy intake and other good stuff that will eaislly make 300 hp that could be bought for less than the cost of a 318 build. 

[brotherGood]

Woodvark; honestly, if i had the money i would STRONGLY consider it. But as of now, all i have to offer would be the 318, and a high-end guitar. Thats about all i have right now, which im sure wouldnt be near the worth of that 360. And even then i would feel as if i was lowballing you on it.
Thanks anyway though

[brotherGood]

Ok, so i believe i've gathered some kind of a parts list for the engine

comp cams or voodoo cams 260?--is that hydraulic round tappet, flat tappet?..idk what the diff. is
mopar performance electronic ignition conversion kit
intake--Edelbrock?..something that i wont kill my mileage but will till get some power
and headers..no idea

any suggestions would be outstanding, but i do believe im starting to get it a little..haha
Also, should i change the carb since im changing ignition and intake?