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[brotherGood]

Alright..picked up a 360 mag over the summer and I'm hoping to start the rebuild this winter once the shed is up. I'm shooting for budget obviously, but would like to get as close to the crate engines as possible. This is kind of an open thread as I've got multiple questions and surely things I hadn't thought of, but any info is greatly appreciated.

[Dippy.org]

[MarkM]

Depending on the condition of the short block you should be able to reproduce the 380 HP crate motor relatively cheaply.  All it consisted of was a factory rotating assembly, M1 dual plane intake manifold, headers and I can't remember if the cam was different.  400 HP out of a 360 is pretty easy achieve.

[T229]

I found a set of Edelbrock heads (60775) for $701 a piece. I would think those would wake up any stock bottom end, being a 318 or 360. I would think those heads on an otherwise stock 318 roller cam motor with an Air Gap or Performer, can easily achieve 300 hp. Im new to the M Body but I'm sure it's been done many times.

[brotherGood]

I've got a 318 with mag heads in it now and it runs great, I'm just greedy and want a 360. I'm planning on factory heads with maybe a bit of work done.

Biggest decisions to make are cam, and whether to stay with carb or switch to efi.

Beyond that, comes converter, trans, etc.

I know I need a 360 car pan, new V belt stuff, snout extension for mechanical fuel pump, do I need 360 mounts or will 318 mounts work? Also, will I need to boost my ignition from what I've got now? (Not lean burn) I've got headers waiting for It, just put a newer small starter in and have a spare alternator.

[T229]

I've read and read on the Magnum head swap. They're cheap, even brand new. Do you have any part numbers for rockers that you used?

Any model years 92 and up Magnum work I read, that correct?

Im compiling a list so actually get this done. I don't want to tear the engine apart as I have a brand new crate motor installed, but just an OEM roller cammed 318 4bbl.

I don't really want to spend $1400 on Edelbrock heads.

[Derekb]

I've read and read on the Magnum head swap. They're cheap, even brand new. Do you have any part numbers for rockers that you used?

Any model years 92 and up Magnum work I read, that correct?

Im compiling a list so actually get this done. I don't want to tear the engine apart as I have a brand new crate motor installed, but just an OEM roller cammed 318 4bbl.

I don't really want to spend $1400 on Edelbrock heads.

any magnum head 5.2 or 5.9 stock valve train you will need a magnum style intake or one that had both don't know if the magnum pushrods swap to the la roller cam motors but you have to have pushrod oiling

[grinner357]

any magnum head 5.2 or 5.9 stock valve train you will need a magnum style intake or one that had both don't know if the magnum pushrods swap to the la roller cam motors but you have to have pushrod oiling

iirc theres a few companies that make them with both, or have a stock manifold that has the holes for la only to mate up with the magnum heads. dont think the pushrods swap since they're thinner but the pushrod oiling is pretty simple, just have to find the part number that matches with amc motors that had the oil thru as well

[MarkM]

Engine Quest makes reman Magnum heads with the LA bolt pattern.


http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/514212-R/10002/-1


$350 for an assembled head, not bad.  You'll still need rocker gear and oil-though pushrods, but that is it.


That being said though, I'm still a fan of the Edelbrock heads.  Even going the option above you'll still be about $1000 into them.  Eddie heads have great flow, better detonation resistance (from being aluminum) and shave a good 100lbs off of the front end of the car.

[T229]

I know it'd be a weight savings. Engine Quest seems to have their chit together with this and they do offer a great package. Eddy's though, at over $700 per, they're pricey. $1400 for the pair seems a bit steep, considering I bought a brand new crate motor S code 318 for $1200, Im not sure I want to spend that much. Im also not changing the cam. I don't want to pull the motor again. I like the idea that EQ's have LA bolt pattern so I can reuse my Eddy performer instead of buying a new one.

Honestly, I'd be happy with ~250HP. I think at that level, it'll run around what a Crown Vic does, and that performance is acceptable, at best.

[Derekb]

you don't have to pull the engine to swap cams in these cars i have done it

i think you would be happy with stock mag heads

i went w2 heads the cost is insane

[M_Body_Coupe]

So I'm going to toss this one out there as an option, not interested in making $$$ off of this sale either, but I hope you guys already knew that.

The current 596 casting I have on the 360 motor will (most likely, not 100% sure yet, but like 95% there) be coming off this winter. I am starting my stroker/W2 build, so literally I may be pulling the motor within the next few weeks.

If you want, and are willing to experiment a tad, I would be happy to part with these. Keep in mind, they are heavily ported, some great numbers to prove (flow-sheet included), but they also have had some fixes on them, like the pin-hole coolant leak in the exhaust cross-over passage that is currently epoxied. Anyways, is it broken? Nope...but is it 100% sure fix...nope!!!

I ran them over the past 5 seasons, I am still happy with them. I ported them myself (two separate times, and therefore have the flow numbers to show the impact of the changes), a pile of hrs went into these, but like I said, they were a great experiment for me and I learned a [Edited by Farley's]-load of stuff from them.

Do a search on the forum for my old posts, I think I detailed a lot of the stuff that was done.

Anyways, just an option, crazy one at that I suppose unless you are the kind willing to walk that "bleeding edge"...LOL. Point being, you'd be getting a set of awesome heads that flow sure numbers, the question is: are you willing to baby them in case the need additional TLC, because eventually they may need that?

All in all, if you want solid, reliable heads that will serve you well, you are best to pick up a new set somewhere, I would not recommend re-conditioning a set of OEM heads.

Heads have:
1) intake runner volume -  178cc
2) combustion chamber volume - 61cc
3) 2.02/1.60" valves, 11/32" stem

Here are the latest flow numbers:

LIFT   I @ % flow   E @ % flow   I @ 28"   E @ 28"
0.100   21   17   67   57
0.150   32   23.5   102   79
0.200   43.5   31   138   104
0.250   55   37   175   125
0.300   64.5   41.5   205   140
0.350   73   45   232   152
0.400   79.5   47.5   253   160
0.450   84   49.5   267   167
0.500   88.8   51   282   172
0.550   91.5   52   291   175
0.600   89   52.5   283   177

EDIT
====
Oh [Edited by Farley's], I just re-read your post, you have already gone done the Mag route...LOL, oops, disregard my post...ha ha...

[brotherGood]

I need to pay more attention to replies.

Im looking to get as close to the crate engine level as I can. As long as everything is solid on the bottom end,  that'll just receive a simple rebuild. I'll probably do a little bit of valve work, as well as changing the springs/retainers to utilize a higher lift cam. While the heads are in the shop, I may look into having the intake pattern redrilled. The thing thatll keep me from going that route, is if the Crosswind intake has gotten their quality issues under control. I lucked into getting my M1 dual plane for the 318, and Im not above swapping intakes, but at the same time I dont want to pull anything off of the 318 now that its running well.

Thoughts?

I'll try to keep a better eye on my notifications.

[MarkM]

Like I said, if the crate motor level is your goal freshen the motor up, slap your M1 intake on, headers, a Magnum center sump oil pan and a 670 CFM Holley and off you go.  Only give thought to deviating from stock if you have to replace parts.  380HP doing the above is stupid easy even using the factory cam.

[AlainB]

you don't have to pull the engine to swap cams in these cars i have done it

i think you would be happy with stock mag heads

i went w2 heads the cost is insane

with the radiator and AC condenser still on the car ?

[MarkM]

Radiator has to come out.  Condenser can be unbolted and shoved forward enough without actually have to remove it.  If memory serves....